![]() ![]() But underneath – that deadly layer of crystalline hoar lay buried. The next morning a metre of nature’s finest lay dolloped from treetop and balcony, spread thick atop road, path and field. Thick clods of snow soon thudded to the ground. Then, midweek, Kashmir’s azure skies began to fold dense and opaque. Yet it’s sobering what happens in an emergency.įor two days we hiked and skinned (strips of artificial fur attached to the bottom of skis for walking up hills that are smooth going forwards, but provide friction in the other direction to stop you sliding back down) to find fresh tracks well away from the beaten track. If you get in trouble out of bounds we will help you if we can. ![]() “We all come to Gulmarg to ski the back country. Gulmarg’s head patrolman is Colin Mitchell, a veteran ski safety expert of many seasons from North America’s famed Rocky Mountains. Imagine instant setting concrete enveloping your being from head to toe, grinding you across rock and ice, crushing into your mouth, ears and nose. And consider this: the density of this snow on top is such that a square metre weighs in excess of 300kg. Get caught in a “slab” avalanche lying on hoar and it’s likely to be large and inescapable. Never have I been to a ski “resort” that offers this – never have I felt more knowledgeable about the risks beneath my feet that give so much pleasure but can yet cause so much destruction. The Tuesday night public meeting with the head of the ski patrol, who delivers an in-depth slideshow on local snow conditions. No sooner did we arrive in Gulmarg were we told of the highlight of the weeks social calendar. Which serves as a reminder that these mountains can be a devilish playground. The other untameable winter ascent is the notorious K2. Nanga Parbat is one of only two 8000m plus peaks that have never been climbed in winter, such is it’s treachery. And 8126m looks every bit as imposing as it should. Gulmarg’s lift accessed ski area tops out at nearly 4000m.Īcross the valley the looming shark fin of the worlds ninth highest mountain – Nanga Parbat – strafes the sky. It’s all about the wild terrain accessible from the top of Mt Aparwhat – and what’s marketed as the world’s highest gondola. And what makes that game of jeopardy all the more real is that no-one comes skiing here for the pistes – after all, there’s only one groomed run. Many have described the conditions in the Alps as the most dangerous for years. With over a metre of newer snow lying on top, it’s a potential death trap. The risk of avalanche has been foremost in many European skiers’ minds this winter, after early season snow across the Alps turned into a weak hidden layer called “hoar” that has the consistency of ball bearings. I arrived to rather sanguine-looking guides warning of hidden rocks, while also promising great adventures if we were prepared to hike well away from Gulmargs solitary gondola in search of still untracked snow.īut the rocks weren’t the only danger that lurked beneath. But this year things got off to a slow start. Up in the Pir Panjals, a mini range in the shadows of the mighty Himalayas, a small town called Gulmarg is buffeted every year by enough snow to bury a two storey house. Skiing in this land of fable and lore was an exhilarating and arresting thing indeed. Kashmir to be precise – for Kashmiris are a proudly independent bunch who are only just emerging from decades of secessionist violence that killed tens of thousands and injured many more. Last week I spent a few days back-country ski-ing in India. Those who watch more often than not practise or play what they come to see. From the collisions on ice to the big airs and high speed crashes in the ski events.Īnd winter sport tends to be participative. The fans and the athletes implicitly accept a fair amount of jeopardy. They’re different because winter sport isn’t just about scoring more goals than the opposition. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |